Pitstop in McGregor
We found ourselves thrust upon McGregor for four days as we awaited our delayed Covid-19 test results (we were visiting family for the holidays so we got tested) and with no fixed home, we frantically searched for a somewhat remote town close to where we left off in Kommetjie, a quiet spot devoid of people and activities that would tempt us into the public sphere. Enter – McGregor.
There is a tarred main road through McGregor, but it’s the last stop really. McGregor is a destination, not a place where many tourists would pass through. The low-key town with its well-preserved homesteads from the late 19th and early 20th century was eerily quiet. The sounds of Temenos’s peacock would pierce the silence and on the odd occasion you would see a soul wandering down a dusty road.
This suited us well given our situation but the impact of the Covid pandemic on this town was felt everywhere you looked. We visited in December, normally a busy holiday period for South Africa, and we found most restaurants, coffee stops and retail shops closed. The places that were open gave us the impression that it’s the kind of town where there are no standard operating hours and perhaps they would open if they saw a crowd pull in for the weekend. It also seemed the restaurants had agreed to share the economic pie, alternating opening times with each other to reduce the competition for patrons.
There isn’t a whole lot to do in McGregor, except to take it easy. If you are visiting, make sure you have a comfy place with views and a spot to put up your feet. Also, take snacks & basic food stuffs – food security* was an issue for us as we came very unprepared. Amateurs!
*The one restaurant that was open on a Monday evening was sold out of their food and we had no groceries with us either. We were lucky to find a local spaza shop open until late where we could buy some food – camp-style tuna pasta for the win.
Do
Free activities:
Hillside walk to McGregor mountain. We missed the turnoff to the old Robertson road (which you are supposed to follow to get to the hillside McGregor sign) so we trudged through some thicket, across small farm holdings, pigsty and eventually followed a horse rider up the hill onto a footpath. The real way is definitely preferable. Some lovely views of the town from atop the hill, not very far or challenging in terms of fitness required for the walk, so definitely something for the family.
Dark tourism at the old graveyard. On the way to the McGregor hill, you can take a walk around the town’s graveyard if you are into that sort of thing.
Old Mill & Gaol Walk. Honestly, we never found the old Gaol but the walk along these historic dusty paths showcase such lovely old homes, beautiful trees and made for some pretty photos.
Visit the Millstone pottery shop in a historic building A lovely local artisan focusing on pottery. Set in a pretty garden, this original old building is worth a visit.
Walk around Temenos gardens. We never found the gardens open (the gardens may be visited by the public, but this is generally a private retreat) so we walked around the perimeter wall and got some sneak peaks of the statues, trees and the noisy peacock through the fence. Looked interesting enough to arrange a proper visit next time we are in McGregor.
Walk around the Old Church. The very picturesque old church on the main road with an old clock tower and church bell about 15 minutes ahead of schedule.
Eat
Food truck at Jimmy’s – This was such a pleasant surprise. Our misadventure on the food scene from the night before meant we set out early in search of an open restaurant with food and we were quite excited when we saw a food truck parked outside of Jimmy’s. We hastily took up the last open table. Jimmy’s serves the drinks, and the truck provides the food. Check out their simple menu, order and Jimmy’s staff will provide you with a plastic plate you use to collect your food. Unpretentious alfresco dining at its best. Jimmy’s is situated on the main road.
Lords Wines – Continue with the main road through McGregor towards the mountains – about 10kms out of town a really lovely wine estate awaits. The tasting room and the deck area overlook the vineyards and hills. Competing with the likes of the wineries in Robertson nearby, we thoroughly enjoyed sipping their bubbly (MCC Brut) whilst snacking on pulled pork sliders and a pizza. It was a perfect afternoon and we would highly recommend a visit to this winery.
Tebaldis – We completely missed the timing on Tebaldi’s. Every time we set out to lunch or dine there they were closed. We trusted the times stated on a google search – rather call ahead to confirm.
Courtyard – They have live music on some evenings – ask a local and they’ll let you know. With a very pretty courtyard (hence the name) sparkling with fairy lights, this place had a lovely ambience. We stayed for a drink and listened to a local DJ mix some chilled house music. There is also a simple menu of salads and burgers available, but we had already eaten.
Anna Lisa’s (Grocer) – If you are lucky you’ll get some delicious fresh cherries if in season. We also sampled a lovely baked cheesecake. Lots of speciality treats available.
There isn’t a whole lot to do in McGregor, except to take it easy.
Stay
The December heat was sweltering and so our filter criteria on Airbnb was first a pool, and all else second. We found a house on the main road just outside of the town centre with a pool and a lovely open deck area for those blistering hot summer days. It was an old, refurbished container situated on a large stand with views of the mountains from the deck which led out onto a crisp refreshing pool. The wind doesn’t stop blowing in McGregor, a sheltered outside area will serve you well in summer. The kitchen was well equipped, and the house basic, clean and modern.
In hindsight, we would have picked something more homely and country style, as there isn’t much to do in McGregor, you spend quite a bit of time at home chilling where space and comfy seating are quite important, something this container house wasn’t quite delivering on.
Best time to visit McGregor
Blistering hot and windy in summer, cold and windy in winter. Depending on the reason you want to visit, perhaps to escape the city on a cold winters weekend away, this quiet retreat would be ideal.
Support local
McGregor feels like the forgotten town,second choice to its popular neighbour Greyton. The town is doing what it can to survive but it needs visitors to keep it going.
Buy local and seasonal produce from the little grocers and butchers in town. If you find a store open, give it a go, you may be pleasantly surprised.
Facebook page: highlighting all the activities in town (this can be slightly outdated and it takes a while for the admins to admit you to the group)
Microtourism info: Run by Fiona Cameron-Brown, pre-covid she would offer the chance to dine with a local and would prepare a Sunday supper. Reach out to her for a chance for a bespoke McGregor trip.
Alternative to airbnb check our more McGregor country style getaways.
Til the next mile,
Wes & Lieza